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1617evs bosch router11/20/2023 ![]() Dust collection at the bit is a strongly recommended add-on. If you plan on going this route, the router must be lifted out of the table for every height adjustment. Every few weeks the motor has to be removed from the base to clean the raceways.Īll of this put together make the 1617EVS fixed base only an ok choice for installation in a router table. The dust causes friction between the motor and base. After some time height adjustments become harder. This only happens when the router is used upside down. When run without dust collection dust has a tendency to work its way into the space between the motor and the walls of the fixed based. This too, can only be done from under table. It must be loosened and re-tightened for every height adjustment. The locking clamp further complicates matters. It too, however, must be used from under the table. Some kits include a height adjustment Allen wrench, which makes the process easier. There is no mechanism to adjust the height of the bit from above the table. ![]() The fixed base was not designed for router table use. Once set the speed setting remains set no matter how roughly the router is handled. The dial locks into each preset with a noticeable click. There are six predefined speeds for easy referencing. The dial is continuously variable up to the maximum speed. The router speed is set in typical Bosch style with a dial at the top of the tool. It's easy to use, fast to complete, and hard to get wrong. This fast adjustment ability combined with the accuracy of the depth dial make the depth adjustment mechanism on the 1617 a winner. The motor can then be moved up or down in larger increments and reconnected to the scale. This makes the metric scale much harder to use than the imperial one.Ī lever allows the motor to be disconnected from the scale. For metric users every mm is marked, but there are no tick marks in-between. The scale has tick marks down to 1/256 of an inch. A floating scale at the bottom of the dial shows the distance the tip of the router bit is moving. The dial slowly lower or raises the motor in the base. Adjustmentsĭepth adjustments on the 1617 are done with a single dial and scale. Bit changes are reasonably fast to complete, but remain just as finicky as with any router. Switching from one to the other can be done in under a minute.īit changes are done with two wrenches. The router accepts both a 1/4" and 1/2" collet. The 1617 does not innovate or push existing features to a new level. ![]() The router has been reduced to the few features a router truly needs. The motor can be removed in a few seconds and installed in another base.Īs a whole the 1617 is designed very conservatively. A compression clamp secures the motor in the base. The Bosch 1617EVS is a fixed based, variable speed router. Let's take a look at the legend that is the Bosch 1617 router. The fixed base version in particular is universally lauded.A 1617 router found its way into my shop to take care of medium duty routing tasks. The 1617 router series is one of the most widely used series of routers amongst woodworkers. I have given it little thought, because the router always does what I need it to do. Has anybody on this forum had experience repairing their routers? The Bosch 1617EVS with two bases is over a $200 router and I'm only into it $30 for brushes and two bearings so it seems worthwhile as I think there is a ton of life left in this motor.The router I use most frequently in my shop is the Bosch 1617EVS. Getting it back together, I have some ideas (put the bearing in the oven to warm it up and put the rotor and shaft assembly in the freezer, etc.maybe?) Obviously the first challenge is getting it apart, how do you get the bearing off without ruining the main shaft collet threads, and also how do you get the bearing out of the main case. I don't want to beat this thing apart for fear I could make it permanently damaged. I test fit the new bearing and I quickly found that it would interfere with the main shaft collet threads. The only problem is the bearing ID is interference fit on the main shaft, and then the OD is interference fit into the main casing. The lower bearing is showing signs of wear and I would like to replace it. Tested it and works great! The problem I'm having is the main lower bearing. I'm in the process of rebuilding it, put new brushes in and also put in a new upper bearing. I suspected the brushes as the reason why. Anyway, he burned this one out and gave it to me. He used the router on his home built CNC machine that he uses to build spear guns. I was given a router from a buddy of mine, Bosch 1617EVS.
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